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1 Crossbred Fabrics
These are woollen cloths woven from crossbred wool yarns and this type of wool is generally classed in three qualities - fine, medium and low. Fine - The fibre has good length, is uniform, and has a spinning limit of about 48's worsted counts. These are used for coatings, and dress fabrics of a medium quality. Medium - Similar to fine, but of a lower quality and the spinning limit is about 40's worsted counts. Used for such fabrics as Cheviots, and others that require a crisp handle. Low - Spins to about 32's worsted counts, and is used for cheap low worsteds. -
2 Warp Knitted Fabrics
Fabrics knitted on the warp loom. They include plain and fancy locknit, tricot and Vandyke or atlas. Locknit is the most popular by reason of its ladderproof property. These fabrics are closer knitted and stretchless than weft-knitted fabrics. They are used largely for underwear, sportswear, gloves, etc.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Warp Knitted Fabrics
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3 Aeroplane Fabrics
Plain weave cloths, used for making wings of aeroplanes. The cloth must be well woven, and practically without faults. The widths vary from 36-in. to 56-in., and up to 160-ends X 160 picks per inch. A standard cotton fabric is woven 84 X 84 threads per inch of 2/80's warp and weft mercerised yam. A fair quantity has been woven 90/2 reed, 100 picks, from 3/120's warp and weft Sea Islands cotton. Linen yarns made from the best quality of flax have been used in great quantities for the manufacture of these fabrics. Often these cloths are boiled after being woven, which process removes impurities not required and give greater strength with a minimum weight. Finished cloths are afterwards put through a process known as "doping". These linens have a breaking strength very high in both warp and weft in 100's warp, 110's weft boiled yarns. -
4 Imitation Backed Fabrics
This class of fabric is largely used in the wool industry for making coatings and dress fabrics of a medium weight. They are really the backs of corkscrew weaves stitched to produce reasonable imitations of common twills on the back of the fabric. All ends and picks weave on both sides of the cloth. Most simple weaves can be re-arranged to produce an appearance similar to a backed cloth and all weaves arranged on the warp principle will be applicable for the weft principle when turned round.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Imitation Backed Fabrics
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5 Jute Fabrics
These are mostly plain weave from coarse yarns, such as known under the following: Bagging, brattice cloth, buckram, hessians, scrims, tarpaulin, sacking, etc. Carpet fabrics are also made for stairs, etc., and twill cloths for matting, sacks, etc. -
6 Silk Fabrics
The Silk Association of Great Britain and Ireland, Inc., has formulated the following definitions of " Silks ": - (1) Silk means the natural product of the silkworm, whether net, spun, or schappe silk. (2) Woven or knitted textiles and articles made therefrom. Silk goods may only be so called if they contain no other fibre than silk. They may be further qualified as pure silk goods if they contain no tin weighting and no added weight of any kind other than that which is an essential part of dyeing and finishing. (3) The word silk may be used for articles containing silk and other fibres provided it is clearly qualified, as for example, silk warp taffeta, silk warp poplin, silk pile velvet, silk mixture, silk union, etc. (4) Smallwares, certain smallwares containing silks in combination with other fibres (such as Paris bindings, gimps, eyeglass cords, etc.), have been by long established custom known as "silks." Only where there is a clear long established custom may they continue to be described as silk, otherwise the general principles set forth above will apply. The more generally known silk fabrics are as given below: - Armures - Barathea, Loisine, Natte, Ottoman, Roy ale. Repp. Figured Silks - Arras, Broche, Brocatelle, Brocades, Chevron, Chine warp prints. Cote-line, Damassin, Foulard, Lampas, Matelasse, Striped tabaret. Satins - Duchesse, Meteor, Mervelleux, Peau de Soie, Radyimar, Raadames, Radium, Satin mousseline. Satin messaline. Satin lus-mineaux. Satin charmeuse. Satin de Lyon, Satin chine. Satin lumiere, Soleil, Soie de Devil. Twills - Serge, Surah, Sarcenat. Velvet, or pile weaves - Terry velvet frese, Utrecht, Velours de nord. Velours de chiffon, Velours de sabre. Silk warp, wool weft - Bengaline, Cotele, Crepon, Irish poplin, Popeline, Poplinette, Sultane, Sicilienne, Velours Victoria, Veloa-tine. Silk warp, cotton weft - Moirette, Polonaise, Satins, Satinet, Striped linings. Taffetas, plain weaves - Bengaline de Soie, Epingle, Faille Francaise, Glace, Gros grain, Gros de Tours, Gros de Naples, Gros de Suez, Lustring, Pongee, Poult de Soie, Royale, Tabaret, Taffeta mousseline. Taffeta chiffon. Crepe de chine, Ninon, tulle, voile, Marquisette, Moire onde. Moire Faconne, Moire Francaise, Moire Antique. -
7 Bradford Lustre Fabrics
Fabrics chiefly used for linings and dress purposes. The most commonly used are distinguished under the following terms: - Alpaca, Brilliantine, Florentine, Glace, Lorraine Lustre, Lustre Linings, Melange Lustre, Pekin Stripes, Sicilians and Grenada. Each fabric is described under its name.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Bradford Lustre Fabrics
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8 Crimp Fabrics
The term includes such types as the "blister" and the "crepon." These fabrics are used for the making of dress goods, and can be produced in five different ways, namely: (a) by making suitable combinations of slack and tight weaves; (b) unequal warp tension in weaving, the crimp forming warp threads being allowed to weave very slack; (c) by combining two materials having a marked dissimilarity of shrinkage power during wet finishing, i.e., botany wool and mohair; (d) by modifying the weave structure in such a manner as to drop some picks from the main fabric and allow them to float on the back, the effectiveness of this method is enhanced by using a hard-twisted, single weft yarn to assist the contraction; (e) chemical means, such as is produced by printing the cloth in stripes with caustic soda of about 20 per cent strength, thickened with some substance such as starch. The cloth shrinks where printed and the unprinted parts in puckering gives the crimp effect. By dyeing the cloth two tones are obtained as a darker shade is shown where the caustic soda appears (see crepeing and crimps)
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9 Furnishing Fabrics
A generic term for heavy, figured fabrics, such as brocades, lampas and damask.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Furnishing Fabrics
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10 Crinkle Fabrics
A general term for most cotton or cotton and silk plain weave cloths which have crepe or crimp stripes in the warp. -
11 Woollen Fabrics
An extremely varied class of textures comprising ladies' dress materials, suitings, overcoatings, shawls, machinery felts, etc., in which all classes of wool not used for worsted spinning are utilised, along with all classes of wool wastes, re-used wools, cotton and other materials mixed, blended and twisted into yarns too varied in character to enumerate. Special treatments of the cloth in finishing such as milling, felting, raising, etc., make woollens in their various classes among the most generally useful of outer clothing textures. -
12 Fil
The French term for thread or fibre. Fil au chinois - Waxed linen thread for sewing. Fil de crin - A heavy silk yarn (see Cordonnet). Fil d'emballage - Coarse pack thread. Fil d'ecosse - Cotton thread. Fil d'epreuve - A French-made linen fabric, in blue and white stripes or checks. Fil de Florence - Silkworm gut used for fishing lines. Fil de Japon - Reeled silk, from 3 to 15 filaments. Fil plat - French cotton yarn, bleached and used for embroidery. Fil re sayette - Combed wool doubled yarns, hard twisted for fabrics and slack twisted for knitting. Sometimes silk is mixed with the wool. Fil an Tonkinois - A very strong waxed linen thread used for heavy work. Fil de trace - A double thread used for outlining designs in applique or point lace fabrics. -
13 Model
[‘mo:dl] m; -s, -1. Dial. (Backform) decorated (wooden) baking mo(u)ld2. DRUCK. printing block (for fabrics)—[‘mɔdl] n; -s, -s (photographic) model* * *Mo|del I ['mɔdl]nt -s, -s (FASHION)model II ['moːdl]nt -s, - (COOK)wooden mould (Brit) or mold (US)* * *Mo·del<-s, -s>[ˈmɔdl̩]nt model* * *Model1 [ˈmoːdl] m; -s, -1. dial (Backform) decorated (wooden) baking mo(u)ld2. TYPO printing block (for fabrics)Model2 [ˈmɔdl] n; -s, -s (photographic) model* * *-s n.model n. -
14 Fireproof Cloth
Cotton cloth treated with various chemical solutions is rendered flameproof, but only asbestos is truly fireproof. For fabrics that are not to be washed, sodium tungstate, borax, boric acid, aluminium acetate or sodium silicate are used mixed with some organic salt such as gypsum, chalk, Epsom salts, china clay, alum, etc. For fabrics that are to be washed such as flannelette - A soaking in a solution of sodium stannate and then in a solution of ammonium sulphate, dried and washed, will render the material flameproof. This process forms a more or less insoluble compound on the fibre. Other compounds used are aluminium sulphate and after-treatment with desodium hydrogen phosphate, to form aluminium phosphate on the fibre (see Asbestos cloth) -
15 Staple
A wool-sorting term denoting whether the wool is of sufficient strength and the fibres sound enough for making warp yarn. A collection of several tufts of wool connected together by a binder (see Tufts (wool) ———————— A term indicating the average spinning length of the fibres in a sample of raw cotton or wool, e.g., cotton may be spoken of as 1-in. staple; (2) staple fabrics is a term used for fabrics that are usually in demand. -
16 Cotton Warp Worsteds
A general term for fabrics made with cotton warp and worsted weft, and used for cheap clothing.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Cotton Warp Worsteds
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17 Embroidery Cloths
A general term for fabrics used for hand embroidery work and includes cambrics, canvas, net, silk, etc. -
18 Lustre Yarns
Wool term for lustre wool such as Lincoln and Leicester which makes strong yarns for fabrics where much wear and strength are required. Single and two-fold counts are produced up to 30's and 2/36's or 2/40's. Mohair and alpaca wools are also termed lustres, and all are worsted yarns. -
19 Millerayes
A silk term for a warp rib fabric. The warp yarns are about 60 per cent to 80 per cent colour in fine stripes somewhat like rainbow effects. This is also a French term for fabrics woven with narrow black and white stripes in cotton, silk, rayon or mixtures. -
20 Passegrad
A 16th century French word for fabrics made in wider widths than customary for that kind.
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